![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:08 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Well, I went with a fresh battery, and after the winter it wouldn’t fire back up for me. Dead fuel pump is the cause. However it did not weather well over the winter. Patina is setting in a little bit more and a few more bubbles on the rockers. I have a month to finish up a shopping list before I am back up there. Should I just run an electric pump and be done with it till I get it home? Cleaned up the interior some at least!
Look the glove box light works!
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:15 |
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Just hook up an electric fuel pump to make sure it runs, no doubt the line needs at minimum to be primed up. I’m guessing the cap and rotor are rusty inside and will start to crap out once you get it running and the rust cleans off...
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:16 |
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I pulled cap and rotor and it is very clean inside. It is only 4 years on a rebuild and a few K miles It does run, it was in the fall at least. I dumped some gas in the carb and it lit off scarily fast
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:18 |
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I’ve got a 12 volt pump sitting in my garage if you want it. Its basically an sbc in this thing right? So a mechanical pump would bolt on the the lower passenger front of the motor.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:20 |
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So will it pump fuel but leaks, or does it not pump at all? Might just be sucking air and needs priming.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:21 |
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I am actually not sure the relationship between the 401 Nailhead and a SBC, but yeah fuel pump is mechanical and likely in the same spot. I didnt dig much to find it, just know it wasnt filling up the bowl even though the needle seemed to be working
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:22 |
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it could be sucking air actually, not pumping at all. I spun it over a bit and no dice. Should I just bring a mity-vac up with me and pull manually?
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:23 |
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A quick googling shows that the pump is in the same spot.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:26 |
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There is little to no relation to the SBC.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:26 |
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Like those levers.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:28 |
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Too cool. I love that instrument fascia.
I’d just get a simple low pressure feed pump at a NAPA or something to keep the float bowl full, then deal with the mechanical pump later when you have it home.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:28 |
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You know the solution here ...
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:28 |
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If you hook up an electric pump fed by a gas can, you can let it run for a minute and see if it will prime itself. (be ready to shut it off when gas starts gushing out the disconnected side of the fuel pump of course...)
Make sure the pressure side of the fuel pump goes up vertically after so it will hold liquid at the bottom.. It might help prime it if you pour a little down into the pressure side before you do this. I’ve also put a low pressure pump back by the gas tank and pushed it right through the mech. fuel pump before in an emergency situation... as long as the diaphram isn’t leaking, then you don’t have to screw around with fuel lines up by the carb.
Actually, if you bring an electric pump and gas can, I’m thinking you could pump gas backwards through the fuel pump and back to the tank to reverse-prime the system (while it’s off)... I don’t think there are any check valves in there.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:28 |
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Shit, man - rust bubbles? We need to come up with a seal program for the corality before it gets away.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:30 |
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Same spot, different bolt pattern (slightly) than an SBC. The mechanical pumps aren’t interchangeable. Different arm lengths, that sort of thing.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:30 |
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Lol that would make it to belfast before I got pulled over or it ran out of a few gallons. I drove my 68 Bronco home across the state of CT with a marine tank once though
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:31 |
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haha truly. Goddamn rust!
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:32 |
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I could grab a marine tank with a bulb and some connectors and plumb it up however. I might try to go reverse first and see what is going on. Hopefully the pickup in the tank is still solid
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:35 |
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Thanks man, I will likely do just that
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:41 |
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Most mech. fuel pumps I’m aware of *do* have what’s functionally a check valve, so that ain’t gonna work. The vast majority are a diaphragm operation, so they pull fuel in (past one one-way valve) and then push it out (past another). No reversing.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:42 |
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Reversing *through* the pump wouldn’t work, but reversing down the line - been there, done that. I’ve blown the sock off in the tank doing that, so just be aware.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:49 |
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Okay, right. Good call, this makes a lot of sense. 505 be warned, I gave bad advice!
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:56 |
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If it had been an oil pump, you’d have had odds of being right. It’s not your fault cars don’t have constant-displacement fuel pumps except for if they have Hilborn...
![]() 05/04/2015 at 16:59 |
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odds the sock still exists? :)
![]() 05/04/2015 at 17:06 |
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mmm. Look at all those air horns. The more the merrier!
![]() 05/04/2015 at 17:08 |
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Step 1: Disconnect fuel line from tank, blow compressed air back into the tank thus blowing the old ass sock off the pickup. Then take off gas cap and leave it off.
Step 2: Replace fuel pump with a regular mechanical from rock auto for $25 or so. Fuel filter too if it’s old.
Step 3: Prime line to pump with mightyvac
Step 4: Dump some gas down carb
Step 5: Pray to diety of choice
Step 6: Turn key
![]() 05/04/2015 at 17:11 |
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You might be surprised. Part of the one on my Rover was still kicking around. It’s probably most dependent on whether its had more evil eth gas in its life or gummy nasty T-E-Pb-laced half-dead Gas Classic. Corrosion and coating with gum are two completely different outcomes...
![]() 05/04/2015 at 17:13 |
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With horns that long, it probably has a torque peak around five RPM.
![]() 05/04/2015 at 17:48 |
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about how it is going to go!
![]() 05/05/2015 at 09:00 |
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Just slap on a yakima box and no one will be the wiser.